Transcript for New wave of Hawaiian surfers look to reclaim sport's cultural spirit
HERE IS ABC'S BECKY WORLEY.
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>> SURFING, THAT IS OUTRAGE
BECAUSE THAT IS WHERE WE
BECAUSE THAT IS WHERE WE
SPIRITUALLY CAN CONNECT TO
SPIRITUALLY CAN CONNECT TO
SOMETHING THAT WAS ALWAYS THERE
SOMETHING THAT WAS ALWAYS THERE
AS NATIVE HAWAIIANS.
AS NATIVE HAWAIIANS.
I FEEL CONNECTED TO MY ANSWERS.
I FEEL CONNECTED TO MY ANSWERS.
I FEEL CONNECTED TO MY CULTURE,
I FEEL CONNECTED TO MY CULTURE,
LIKE, OUR CULTURE GOES WAY
LIKE, OUR CULTURE GOES WAY
BEYOND JUST LANGUAGE.
BEYOND JUST LANGUAGE.
>> CAN SAY SHE WAS BORN WITH
SURFING IN HER BLOOD.
SURFING IN HER BLOOD.
HER GRANDFATHER, WAS A SURFING
HER GRANDFATHER, WAS A SURFING
LEGEND.
LEGEND.
HER FIRST MEMORY OF SURFING IS
HER FIRST MEMORY OF SURFING IS
BEING ON A BOARD WITH HIM.
BEING ON A BOARD WITH HIM.
>> SINCE WE WERE BABIES, BEFORE
WE COULD CALL -- WALK, WE WERE
WE COULD CALL -- WALK, WE WERE
HERE IN THE WATER.
HERE IN THE WATER.
MY GRANDFATHER WAS JUST ALWAYS
MY GRANDFATHER WAS JUST ALWAYS
ATE WATER MAN.
ATE WATER MAN.
HE WAS RAISED IN A TIME WHERE A
HE WAS RAISED IN A TIME WHERE A
LOT OF CULTURE, TAKEN AWAY.
LOT OF CULTURE, TAKEN AWAY.
YOU WERE NOT ALLOWED TO SPEAK
YOU WERE NOT ALLOWED TO SPEAK
OUR LANGUAGE.
OUR LANGUAGE.
AND SOMETIMES SOME PEOPLE CANNOT
AND SOMETIMES SOME PEOPLE CANNOT
EVEN HULA DANCE.
EVEN HULA DANCE.
AND SO THAT GOT LOST BUT I THINK
AND SO THAT GOT LOST BUT I THINK
NATURALLY, HE JUST ALWAYS
NATURALLY, HE JUST ALWAYS
CONNECTED TO HIS CULTURE THROUGH
CONNECTED TO HIS CULTURE THROUGH
BEING A WATER MAN IN THE OCEAN.
BEING A WATER MAN IN THE OCEAN.
>> Reporter: THE 26th ROW
REPRESENTS A GROWING MOVEMENT OF
REPRESENTS A GROWING MOVEMENT OF
NATIVE HAWAIIANS RECLAIM THE
NATIVE HAWAIIANS RECLAIM THE
SPIRIT OF SURFING THAT THEY SAY
SPIRIT OF SURFING THAT THEY SAY
HAS BEEN CO-OPTED BY POP-CULTURE
HAS BEEN CO-OPTED BY POP-CULTURE
AND COMMERCIAL -- COMMERCIALIZE.
AND COMMERCIAL -- COMMERCIALIZE.
WE WERE ALWAYS RAISED TO KNOW
WE WERE ALWAYS RAISED TO KNOW
THAT THE OCEAN IS RESPECTED LIKE
THAT THE OCEAN IS RESPECTED LIKE
AN ELDER.
AN ELDER.
IN HOLLYWOOD, SURFING HAS BEEN
IN HOLLYWOOD, SURFING HAS BEEN
PORTRAYED AS CALIFORNIA COLE
PORTRAYED AS CALIFORNIA COLE
BAGLIO TALK ABOUT FILMS LIKE
BAGLIO TALK ABOUT FILMS LIKE
POINT BREAK AND SURFER DUDE.
POINT BREAK AND SURFER DUDE.
>> ON A SURFER DUDE.
>> Reporter: OR MUSIC LIKE THE
>> Reporter: OR MUSIC LIKE THE
BEACH BOYS HIT SONG SURFING USA.
BEACH BOYS HIT SONG SURFING USA.
♪ EVERYBODY BE SURFING LIKE
♪ EVERYBODY BE SURFING LIKE
CALIFORNIA ♪
CALIFORNIA ♪
>> Reporter: FROM WESTERN
EXPLORERS BACK IN THE 17 AND
EXPLORERS BACK IN THE 17 AND
1800s SHOWED A SURFING TRACES
1800s SHOWED A SURFING TRACES
ITS ROOTS ALL THE WAY BACK TO
ITS ROOTS ALL THE WAY BACK TO
ANCIENT HAWAII.
ANCIENT HAWAII.
>> YOU HAVE THE DOCUMENTATION OF
THE WESTERNERS ARRIVING IN THE
THE WESTERNERS ARRIVING IN THE
LATE 1700S AND THEY WERE AMAZED
LATE 1700S AND THEY WERE AMAZED
BY THESE THINGS.
BY THESE THINGS.
THESE ACCOUNTS WHERE PEOPLE
THESE ACCOUNTS WHERE PEOPLE
WOULD DO THESE DEATH-DEFYING
WOULD DO THESE DEATH-DEFYING
ACTS ON THESE PIECES OF WOOD IN
ACTS ON THESE PIECES OF WOOD IN
WAYS THAT SAILORS WERE TO FIND
WAYS THAT SAILORS WERE TO FIND
OF, THE WATERMAN OF THE WEST
OF, THE WATERMAN OF THE WEST
WOULD NEVER ATTEMPT AND THESE
WOULD NEVER ATTEMPT AND THESE
ARE YOUNG WOMEN DOING IT AND
ARE YOUNG WOMEN DOING IT AND
JUST BLEW THEIR MINDS LITERALLY.
JUST BLEW THEIR MINDS LITERALLY.
>> Reporter: THE CARRIER DID
THOSE CURATORS IN HONOLULU
THOSE CURATORS IN HONOLULU
BRINGING OUT PRECIOUS ARTIFACTS
BRINGING OUT PRECIOUS ARTIFACTS
LIKE PORTS THAT WEIGH OVER
LIKE PORTS THAT WEIGH OVER
100 POUNDS OR THIS ONE FROM THE
100 POUNDS OR THIS ONE FROM THE
1700s.
1700s.
ASPECTS OF THIS BOARD IS
ASPECTS OF THIS BOARD IS
POSSIBLY THE OLDEST BOARD --
POSSIBLY THE OLDEST BOARD --
>> SO THIS PART IS POSSIBLY THE
OLDEST BOARD IN THE WORLD.
OLDEST BOARD IN THE WORLD.
>> Reporter: THE ARRIVAL OF
WESTERNERS CHALLENGED NATIVE --
WESTERNERS CHALLENGED NATIVE --
NATIVE INDIGENOUS CULTURE.
NATIVE INDIGENOUS CULTURE.
AND THEN SURFING TWIDDLED UNTIL
AND THEN SURFING TWIDDLED UNTIL
THIS MAN CAME ALONG.
THIS MAN CAME ALONG.
OVER 100 YEARS LATER.
OVER 100 YEARS LATER.
NATIVE HAWAIIAN WAS A THREE-TIME
NATIVE HAWAIIAN WAS A THREE-TIME
SWIMMING CHAMPION IN THE 1912
SWIMMING CHAMPION IN THE 1912
AND 1920 OLYMPICS LOADING HAWAII
AND 1920 OLYMPICS LOADING HAWAII
AND SURFING WHILE TRAVELING THE
AND SURFING WHILE TRAVELING THE
GLOBE.
GLOBE.
HOW DO YOU PERCEIVE THE
HOW DO YOU PERCEIVE THE
IMPORTANCE?
IMPORTANCE?
>> HE WAS THE FASTEST MAN IN THE
WATER.
WATER.
HE WAS THE MICHAEL PHELPS OF HIS
HE WAS THE MICHAEL PHELPS OF HIS
TIME.
TIME.
HE WAS ALSO AN AVID SURFER IN A
HE WAS ALSO AN AVID SURFER IN A
TIME WHEN THERE WAS NOT A LOT OF
TIME WHEN THERE WAS NOT A LOT OF
SURFING HAPPENING IN HAWAII.
SURFING HAPPENING IN HAWAII.
>> Reporter: NOW MILLIONS SERVE
AND MILLIONS MORE BUY INTO
AND MILLIONS MORE BUY INTO
SURFING CULTURE.
SURFING CULTURE.
THE LIFESTYLE TO THE CLOTHING
THE LIFESTYLE TO THE CLOTHING
ASSOCIATED WITH THE SPORT.
ASSOCIATED WITH THE SPORT.
♪ ♪
♪ ♪
LIKE QUICKSILVER.
LIKE QUICKSILVER.
>> THE OCEAN IS PART OF OUR
HERITAGE, PART OF OUR CULTURE,
HERITAGE, PART OF OUR CULTURE,
PART OF OUR TRADITION.
PART OF OUR TRADITION.
>> Reporter: HE IS MODERN
HAWAIIAN SURFING ROYALTY.
HAWAIIAN SURFING ROYALTY.
HE AND HIS LATE BROTHER SAVED
HE AND HIS LATE BROTHER SAVED
HUNDREDS IN THE 1960s AS THE
HUNDREDS IN THE 1960s AS THE
FIRST LIFEGUARDS.
FIRST LIFEGUARDS.
>> HE WAS JUST THE BRIGHTEST
STAR OUT THERE.
STAR OUT THERE.
HIS STORY TOLD IN THIS ESPN
HIS STORY TOLD IN THIS ESPN
30 FOR 30 DOCUMENTARY HAWAIIAN,
30 FOR 30 DOCUMENTARY HAWAIIAN,
THE LEGEND OF EDDIE ICAL.
THE LEGEND OF EDDIE ICAL.
HE WAS LOST AT SEA TRYING TO
HE WAS LOST AT SEA TRYING TO
SAVE HIS FRIENDS AFTER THEIR
SAVE HIS FRIENDS AFTER THEIR
VOYAGING CANOE CAPSIZED IN THE
VOYAGING CANOE CAPSIZED IN THE
OPEN OCEAN.
OPEN OCEAN.
>> TO SAVE SOMEONE'S LIFE AND
PUT YOUR LIFE IN JEOPARDY IS
PUT YOUR LIFE IN JEOPARDY IS
WHAT EDDIE DID.
WHAT EDDIE DID.
WE NEVER LOST ONE PERSON IN 10
WE NEVER LOST ONE PERSON IN 10
YEARS.
YEARS.
WE DO NOT HAVE ANY JET SKIS.
WE DO NOT HAVE ANY JET SKIS.
ALL WE HAD WAS FANS AND A
ALL WE HAD WAS FANS AND A
SURFBOARD.
SURFBOARD.
>> Reporter: THE SURFING LEGEND
STILL HONORED WITH THE ICONIC
STILL HONORED WITH THE ICONIC
EDDIE AIKAU BIG WAVE
EDDIE AIKAU BIG WAVE
INVITATIONAL.
INVITATIONAL.
>> WE GO FOR WE GO FOR A PIECE
OF MIND.
OF MIND.
OF US, IT IS ALWAYS BEEN
OF US, IT IS ALWAYS BEEN
SOMEPLACE SACRED.
SOMEPLACE SACRED.
>> Reporter: HE SAYS IT IS A
CULTURE THAT IS NOW BIG BUSINESS
>> Reporter: HE SAYS IT IS A
CULTURE THAT IS NOW BIG BUSINES
CULTURE THAT IS NOW BIG BUSIN
BUSINESS.
BUSINESS.
>> FROM A CULTURAL TRADITION OF
SURFING GOING BACK HUNDREDS AND
SURFING GOING BACK HUNDREDS AND
HUNDREDS OF YEARS TO OUR REALTY,
HUNDREDS OF YEARS TO OUR REALTY,
FAST FORWARD TO TODAY, 2023, HAS
FAST FORWARD TO TODAY, 2023, HAS
BEEN TURNING INTO A MAKE MONEY
BEEN TURNING INTO A MAKE MONEY
DEAL.
DEAL.
>> Reporter: SURFING IS
ESTIMATED TO BE OVER A
ESTIMATED TO BE OVER A
4 BILLION-DOLLAR INDUSTRY.
4 BILLION-DOLLAR INDUSTRY.
HOW MUCH OF THAT BENEFIT DO YOU
HOW MUCH OF THAT BENEFIT DO YOU
THINK HAWAIIANS REAP?
THINK HAWAIIANS REAP?
>> ZERO.
ZERO.
ZERO.
SPOKE ABOUT SOME HAWAIIANS ARE
SPOKE ABOUT SOME HAWAIIANS ARE
RIDING THE WAVE OF SURFING'S
RIDING THE WAVE OF SURFING'S
FUTURE.
FUTURE.
>> CHRIS MOORE.
>> Reporter: DEBUT IN THE TOKYO
>> Reporter: DEBUT IN THE TOKYO
2020 OLYMPICS.
2020 OLYMPICS.
CARISSA MORE TAKING HOME THE
CARISSA MORE TAKING HOME THE
GOLD.
GOLD.
SHE IS NOW TAKING HER PLACE NEXT
SHE IS NOW TAKING HER PLACE NEXT
TO DUKE IN SURFING HISTORY AND
TO DUKE IN SURFING HISTORY AND
INSPIRING A NEW GENERATION.
INSPIRING A NEW GENERATION.
>> IT WAS THE NATIVE HAWAIIANS
THAT BROUGHT HOME THE GOLD AND
THAT BROUGHT HOME THE GOLD AND
WE ARE SO PROUD OF HER.
WE ARE SO PROUD OF HER.
AS PEOPLE SHARE THIS AMAZING
AS PEOPLE SHARE THIS AMAZING
SPORT WITH THE WORLD, THE
SPORT WITH THE WORLD, THE
SPIRITUAL CONNECTION TO HAWAII
SPIRITUAL CONNECTION TO HAWAII
OFFICE HISTORY IS NOT LOST.
OFFICE HISTORY IS NOT LOST.
>> Reporter: AS A NATIVE
HAWAIIAN, I THINK BEING IN THE
HAWAIIAN, I THINK BEING IN THE
WATER WHETHER IT BE DIVING,
WATER WHETHER IT BE DIVING,
SURFING, SAILING, ANYTHING IN
SURFING, SAILING, ANYTHING IN
THE WATER, THAT IS ME CONNECTING
THE WATER, THAT IS ME CONNECTING
TO MY PEOPLE.
TO MY PEOPLE.
AND
This transcript has been automatically generated and may not be 100% accurate.